How I Strip Original Woodwork

I shared a short video of woodwork stripping on Instagram and a bunch of questions about the process followed. So, I thought I would write up a quick post that you can read now or save for later. (Pin it!) First up, safety! Please read and understand the EPA’s Lead-Safe Removal Guide. Most old houses contain lead paint, and at this point, I always assume that lead is present when I work here in BHH. If there is any question, using a lead test swab offers a definitive answer. I usually keep tests on hand, but mostly for items that I bring into the house. Once you understand the risks of lead, you can determine the safety protocols to protect yourself and your family.

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After I’ve protected the area and donned my PPE, (I always wear a P100 mask, and I prefer these safety glasses.) I start removing paint with my infrared paint remover and a boomerang scraper. I use the Cobra and the scraper from Eco-Strip. The Craftsman Blog sells a less expensive IR paint remover, but I have not tried it yet, so I cannot offer a review. I’ve used the Cobra a ton, and it’s great. Infrared paint removers heat the paint from the inside out without heating it hot enough to release lead vapors. With my Cobra, I generally get almost back to bare wood, but the surface normally has some places where the paint is still a little lumpy.

After removing as much paint as possible with the Infrared paint remover, I switch to my Vacuum Proscraper attached to my HEPA shop vac. (I linked my shop vac, but if you are in the market for one, I suggest waiting for a price drop. There must be a supply issue or something. It is usually closer to $300-$400.)

The Proscraper is great for removing leftover raised areas of paint, and it’s a dream on flats. In many circumstances, I don’t even need to sand the flats after the Proscraper. I use it carefully on curves so I don’t gouge the wood.

Next, I use Mineral Spirits and 000 to 0000 steel wool to smooth and remove leftover paint.

To keep down the lead dust, I damp sand with 80-220 grit. In the photo below, you will see that my woodwork is paint grade Douglas fur, affectionately referred to as Doug “furry.” It’s a real bear to get it smooth. Once the wood is dry, I knock down the fur with 120-220 grit sandpaper with my HEPA shop vac close to catch the dust.

Finally, if there are any stubborn areas, I hit them with a coat of Smart Strip, followed by mineral spirits.

Stripping woodwork is not difficult, but it is time-consuming. For example, it took me about four hours to strip the side trim and jamb of our giant front door. My best suggestion is to turn on a podcast (ahem…True Tales From Old Houses) or music and let the work fade away.

I will be repainting this woodwork, but the steps to get to bare wood are the same. They just take a bit more attention to detail.

I received a question on Instagram about knowing when it’s time to take it back to bare wood. In BHH, we have a paint compatibility issue. Someone painted latex over oil without a proper bonding primer. As a result, most of the woodwork in the foyer looks like the photo below.

Unfortunately, there is no way to repair that issue without taking it all back to bare wood. Another time it is best to strip and repaint is when there are so many layers that the details get lost.

If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments, and happy stripping! Wait that sounds wrong.

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